Nestled among the mountains of Kanagawa Prefecture, Hakone is one of Japan’s most beloved destinations, renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich history, and deep cultural heritage. For centuries, travelers have passed through this region, drawn by its strategic location along the historic Tōkaidō Road, its sacred sites, and the natural beauty shaped by volcanic activity.

From the formidable Odawara Castle, once the stronghold of powerful samurai clans, to the tranquil grounds of Hakone Shrine overlooking Lake Ashi, the area offers a fascinating glimpse into Japan’s past. Visitors can retrace the footsteps of Edo-period travelers at Hakone Sekisho, one of the country’s most important checkpoints, and experience the atmosphere of traditional hospitality at Amazake Chaya, a teahouse that has welcomed guests for more than four centuries. Meanwhile, the dramatic volcanic valley of Owakudani showcases the powerful geological forces that continue to define the region today.

Together, these landmarks tell the story of Hakone as a place where history, spirituality, and nature have been intertwined for generations. This article explores some of the area’s most iconic sites, revealing the unique experiences and enduring traditions that make Hakone a destination unlike any other in Japan.

Getting to Hakone

Hakone is very well connected with Tokyo; there are several lines (including Shinkansen) running everyday between Tokyo and Hakone-Yumoto station. The fastest way to reach Hakone is the shinkansen: boarding the bullet train from Tokyo station to Odawara station is not cheap but you can reach your destination in about 50 minutes. From Odawara there are local trains and bus connecting the main station to Hakone Yumoto. Hakone can be discovered boarding different rides: whether cruising through the sky, crossing a lake, ascending or descending mountain trails on wheels or ropeway, Hakone boasts exciting ways to go and a chance to experience magnificent nature.

• Tozan Cable Car: travels at approximately 1.2 km to connect Gora and Sounzan stations in 10 minutes.
• Tozan railway: travel from Odawara to Gora stations while enjoying surrounding wilderness and breathtaking views from railroad bridges.
• Tozan bus: many buses operate, offering easy connections as it crisscrosses Hakone’s fascinating mountain roads.
• Tōkaidō Shinkansen: one of the busiest high-speed rail lines in the world. About 340–380 Tōkaidō Shinkansen trains operate daily; in normal daytime operation, 10–16 trains per hour can depart from Tokyo Station. At peak times, trains may depart as frequently as every 3–5 minutes.
• Hakone Ropeway: enjoy the views during a 30- minutes ride across four kilometers between Sounzan and Togendai stations, including the amazing Owakudani volcanic valley, lake Ashi and magnificent Mt. Fuji.
• Sightseeing Cruise: operates between Hakone-Machi, Motohakone and Togendai on lake Ashi. Enjoy the excellent Hakone skyline and panoramic view of Mt. Fuji.
• Enchanting cruise to Savor Mt.Fuji and Matcha Tea: this new sightseeing boat is inspired by the Kitano Daichayu a large scale tea ceremony historically held by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in kyoto over 400 years ago. Inside are different spaces inspired by tea rooms and tea fields that serve you savory matcha sweets and drinks. Hakone cruise matcha party traditional japanese colors of dark brown and silver vermillion. chabatake dandan seating area on the third floor outdoor deck recalls a tea field. (Route of Matcha party cruise: Hakone Sekisho-ato Port ~ Moto-Hakone Port ~Hakonemachi Port ~ Kojiri Port).

Must see in Hakone

1) Owakudani

Owakudani (“Great Boiling Valley”) is an active volcanic area formed roughly 3,000 years ago after an eruption of the Hakone volcano. Today it’s famous for steaming vents, sulfurous fumes, views of Mount Fuji on clear days, the ropeway, and of course the black eggs.

Owakudani’s Famous Black Eggs (Kuro-tamago)

If you visit Owakudani, you’ll see one of Hakone’s most famous foods: kuro-tamago (black eggs). These are ordinary chicken eggs that are cooked using the volcanic hot springs of Owakudani. The shells turn completely black due to chemical reactions caused by the mineral-rich, sulfurous geothermal waters and steam. Inside, however, the egg looks much like a normal hard-boiled egg.

For many years, the common explanation was that sulfur compounds reacted with minerals around the shell, creating a dark coating. More recent scientific research suggests the black layer is more complex and may involve organic compounds formed during heating in the unique hydrothermal environment.

The Legend: 7 Extra Years of Life

Local folklore says that eating one black egg adds seven years to your life. This belief is linked to ancient traditions and legends associated with the volcanic valley and nearby sacred sites. Of course, it’s a cultural legend rather than a medical fact.

What Do They Taste Like?

Most visitors describe them as tasting very similar to a normal hard-boiled egg, though some notice a slight sulfur aroma from the volcanic cooking process. Community reports from travelers generally agree that the appearance is much more dramatic than the flavor difference. The eggs are typically:

1. Boiled in Owakudani’s hot spring water at about 80°C for around an hour.
2. Steamed for an additional period using geothermal steam.
3. Transported to visitor facilities and sold fresh to tourists.

2) Old Tōkaidō Road

Long before the age of railways and expressways, the Tōkaidō Road served as the main artery connecting Edo (modern Tokyo) and Kyoto, the political and cultural centers of Japan. Established during the Edo period (1603–1868) by the Tokugawa shogunate, the route stretched for nearly 500 kilometers along the Pacific coast and became the country’s most important transportation corridor.

The name “Tōkaidō” means “Eastern Sea Route,” reflecting its path along Japan’s eastern coastline. Along the road were fifty-three official post stations where travelers could rest, find lodging, eat, and prepare for the next stage of their journey. Merchants, samurai, government officials, pilgrims, and ordinary citizens all traveled this route, making it a vibrant center of commerce and cultural exchange.

One of the most challenging and memorable sections of the Tōkaidō passed through Hakone. Here, travelers had to navigate steep mountain paths and dense forests before reaching the shores of Lake Ashi. Because of its strategic location, the Tokugawa government established the Hakone Sekisho checkpoint to monitor movement between eastern and western Japan.

Today, portions of the Old Tōkaidō Road remain preserved in Hakone. Visitors can walk along cobblestone paths lined with towering cedar trees, many of which were planted more than 400 years ago to provide shade and protection for travelers. This scenic stretch offers a rare opportunity to experience the landscape much as it appeared during the Edo period.

Walking the Old Tōkaidō is more than a journey through nature; it is a journey through history. Along the route, visitors encounter landmarks such as Hakone Sekisho and Amazake Chaya, a traditional teahouse that has welcomed travelers for centuries. Together, these sites bring to life the experiences of those who once made the long journey between Edo and Kyoto on foot. Today, while the Tōkaidō Shinkansen carries millions of passengers between Tokyo and Osaka in just a few hours, the preserved sections of the Old Tōkaidō Road offer a striking contrast—a chance to slow down and connect with the rhythms of travel from another era.

Sekisho check-point

Hakone Sekisho was one of the most important security checkpoints in Japan during the Edo period (1603–1868). Located on the shores of Lake Ashi, it controlled traffic along the famous Tōkaidō road connecting Edo (modern Tokyo) and Kyoto. Unlike most historical checkpoints in Japan, Hakone Sekisho is considered the only checkpoint that has been reconstructed almost completely to its original late-Edo-period appearance using archaeological evidence and original construction methods.

The Tokugawa shogunate established the checkpoint in 1619 to monitor travelers and maintain political control. Hakone was a natural bottleneck between mountains and the lake, making it an ideal location for inspections. Among more than 50 checkpoints across Japan, Hakone was considered one of the most significant. A famous phrase associated with the checkpoint was “iri teppō, de onna” (“guns entering, women leaving”). Officials carefully searched for:

• Firearms being brought into Edo.
• Wives and daughters of feudal lords attempting to leave Edo without permission.

The Tokugawa government required many daimyo (feudal lords) to keep their families in Edo as a way of discouraging rebellion. The original checkpoint was abolished after the end of the shogunate in the late 19th century. However, detailed historical documents were discovered in 1983, allowing historians to reconstruct the site with remarkable accuracy. The restored checkpoint opened to the public in 2007. Today you can explore:

• The main inspection gate
• Guardhouses and officials’ quarters
• A reconstructed jail
• Watchtowers overlooking Lake Ashi
• The checkpoint museum with historical documents, travel permits, weapons, and exhibits about Edo-period travel.

Ishidatami

This stone paved road was built at the beginning of Edo period to make travel smooth and easy for royals as well as commoners; present day travelers can sense the passage of time as they look out the scenery as beautiful and captivating as it was for Edo pilgrims, priest, poets and others.

Amazake Chaya

Located along the historic Old Tōkaidō Road between Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi, Amazake Chaya is one of the oldest continuously operating teahouses in Japan. The teahouse has been serving travelers for more than 400 years and remains under the stewardship of the same family line, now several generations later.

During the Edo period (1603–1868), Hakone was one of the most challenging sections of the Tōkaidō, the route connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Travelers, merchants, samurai, and pilgrims climbing the steep mountain roads would stop at teahouses such as Amazake Chaya to rest, warm themselves, and regain their strength before continuing their journey.

One of the most remarkable features of the teahouse is its traditional thatched-roof building. Although the structure has been rebuilt following fires and natural disasters, it was carefully restored using traditional materials and techniques to preserve its Edo-period atmosphere. Inside, visitors can sit beside an open hearth and experience a setting that feels much the same as it would have centuries ago.

The house specialty is amazake, a naturally sweet drink made from fermented rice kōji. Despite its name, the version served here is essentially non-alcoholic and has long been valued as a nourishing source of energy for travelers. The recipe has changed little over the centuries. Visitors often pair it with chikara mochi, freshly prepared rice cakes grilled over charcoal and served with traditional toppings such as soybean flour, black sesame, or soy sauce.

Today, Amazake Chaya is more than just a place to eat and drink. It offers a rare opportunity to step into the world of Edo-period Japan and imagine the experiences of travelers who once crossed the mountains of Hakone on foot. For many visitors, it is one of the most authentic historical experiences in the region.

3) Hakone-Yumoto

Hakone-Yumoto has been the entry point to Hakone’s hot spring area for over 400 years. During the Edo period, travelers along the Old Tōkaidō Road would stop here to rest and recover before continuing into the mountains. Today, it plays the same role for modern tourism.

It is also where the famous Hakone onsen experience begins, making it one of the most visited parts of the region. Arguably the most vibrant and lively hot spring district, Yumoto will soon convince you of its superior features like hot springs for day trips, firmly established inns offering traditional hospitality and street around the station chock a block with restaurants and souvenirs shops.

Hot springs (onsen culture)

Hakone-Yumoto is full of ryokan (traditional inns) and bathhouses using natural geothermal water from the surrounding volcanic mountains. Common features:

• Indoor and outdoor baths (often river-view rotenburo)
• Mineral-rich waters said to help fatigue and muscle pain
• Traditional multi-course meals (kaiseki) in ryokan stays

It’s one of the easiest places near Tokyo to experience authentic onsen culture without traveling far.

4) Hakone Shrine

Hakone Shrine is one of Japan’s most famous Shinto shrines, located on the shores of Lake Ashi in the Hakone mountains. Surrounded by ancient cedar forests, it is known for its peaceful atmosphere, rich history, and iconic red torii gate standing in the lake. The shrine was founded in 757 CE by the Buddhist priest Mangan Shōnin. It became an important spiritual center for warriors and travelers, especially during the Kamakura period when Minamoto no Yoritomo sought refuge there before rising to power. Later, the shrine was patronized by samurai leaders including Tokugawa Ieyasu.

The Famous “Torii of Peace”

The shrine’s most photographed feature is the bright red torii gate standing in Lake Ashi. Many visitors come specifically to photograph this gate with the lake and, on clear days, views toward Mount Fuji.

The Dragon Legend

According to local legend, a nine-headed dragon lived in Lake Ashi and troubled the local people. Priest Mangan is said to have subdued the dragon and transformed it into a protective deity. Dragon imagery can be seen throughout the shrine, and the nearby Kuzuryu Shrine is dedicated to this dragon spirit.

What to See

• The lakeside torii gate
• A cedar-lined approach with centuries-old trees
• The main shrine buildings decorated in vivid vermilion
• Dragon-themed purification fountain
• The shrine treasure hall, which displays historical artifacts and cultural treasures

Visiting Information

• Location: Moto-Hakone, Hakone, Kanagawa Prefecture
• Access: About a 35–40 minute bus ride from Hakone-Yumoto Station, or reachable by sightseeing boat across Lake Ashi.
• Admission: Shrine grounds are free; the treasure hall charges a small fee.

5) Odawara castle

Odawara Castle is one of Japan’s most important historic castles and a symbol of the city of Odawara. Located about an hour from Tokyo by train, it played a major role during Japan’s Sengoku (“Warring States”) period. Odawara Castle is best known as the stronghold of the Hōjō clan and as the site of the decisive 1590 siege that helped complete Hideyoshi’s unification of Japan. It is also listed among Japan’s “100 Fine Castles.”

The castle was originally built in the mid-15th century by the Ōmori clan and it later became the headquarters of the powerful Later Hōjō clan, who controlled much of the Kantō region for over 100 years. Thanks to extensive moats, walls, and natural defenses, the castle successfully resisted attacks by famous warlords such as Uesugi Kenshin and Takeda Shingen. In 1590, during the Siege of Odawara, Toyotomi Hideyoshi surrounded the castle with a massive army and forced the Hōjō clan to surrender after a three-month siege.

The original castle structures were destroyed during the Meiji era. The current main keep (tenshu) is a reconstruction completed in 1960 and renovated in 2016. Inside, you’ll find exhibits on local history, samurai culture, armor, weapons, and the castle’s past.

Highlights

• Castle Keep (Donjon): Panoramic views of the city and Sagami Bay from the top floor.
• Castle Park: Beautiful grounds with seasonal flowers, especially cherry blossoms in spring.
• Historical Exhibits: Samurai armor, swords, documents, and displays about the Hōjō clan.
• Ninja and Samurai Experiences: Family-friendly attractions near the castle grounds.

Visiting Information

• Location: 6 Jonai, Odawara, Kanagawa, Japan.
• Opening Hours: Generally 9:00 AM–5:00 PM (last admission around 4:30 PM).
• Access: About a 10-minute walk from Odawara Station. It’s a popular stop for travelers heading to Hakone.

Conclusion

From the historic walls of Odawara Castle to the sacred atmosphere of Hakone Shrine, the preserved Edo-period checkpoint of Hakone Sekisho, and the volcanic landscape of Owakudani, Hakone offers a fascinating journey through Japan’s history, culture, and natural beauty. Each site reveals a different aspect of the region’s identity, whether it is the legacy of samurai clans, spiritual traditions, the importance of ancient travel routes, or the powerful forces that continue to shape the landscape today.

Yet Hakone’s story would not be complete without exploring the natural hot springs that have attracted visitors for centuries. Fed by the same volcanic activity that created Owakudani, Hakone’s onsen are at the heart of the region’s reputation as one of Japan’s premier wellness destinations. In the next article, we will discover the history, traditions, and unique experiences of Hakone’s famous hot springs, and learn why they remain an essential part of any visit to this remarkable area.